scraper

I had ordered a set of 3 scrapers and just got to try them out tonight on some scrap wood. I used a mill file to sharpen the edge and then burnished them with a hard drill bit, skipping the honing phase because I don't have sharpening stones. The whole burnishing action is a real feel thing and I can see how it would get better with experience. I managed to get a burr but probably not aggressive enough. Some of the scraping yielded only dust but I did get a good bit of curls generated as well. It's far from drawing long even wood curls, but it's a start. Next time, I'll try to use some fine sand paper on a glass plate to hone the face and edge and smooth out the file mark.

Watch your back

I've had some concerns about the back piece fitting properly. It seemed a little too small at the widest points of the instrument. Several people on the Cafe looked at closeup photos that I posted and thought that it would work out ok especially if I were to bind the back and/or push the sides in slightly. I also received advice to let the instrument sit for a little while and acclimate. The wood may move some. I was ready to take all the advice. However, Ken Wise (from IVC) approached me and offered to send out a second back so that I can compare and send back the lesser of the two. How is that for service?

In the meantime, I need to learn how to sharpen/hone/burnish the scrapers that arrived.

The IV is now connected

My first kit is here. It's known as the IV kit since it's sold by International Violin Company. I'm very impressed with their service. It got shipped the same day as the order and arrived two days later.

I am going to use this kit as my "scratch pad" for learning as much as I can about building. To that end, I've decided to get a version of the kit that has no holes cut in the top. My plan is to turn it into an oval hole mandolin. As such, the bracing will change from the way the kit was designed. I'll probably try to do an X bracing pattern.



This IV kit was designed to become an f-hole mandolin. This means that the neck is made to connect to the top at the 15th fret. Oval hole mandolins usually have the neck connect at the 12th fret. I would like to use this "problem" as an opportunity to learn how to design/carve/fit a new neck. That's an exciting prospect for the project. If I run into problems, I can always just use the neck that came with the kit and see how it sounds.



Other things I'm thinking of changing include - different binding, binding of the back, headstock inlay, oval-hole rosette, and maybe even (heavens!) installing an internal pickup with an end jack.

Tool-wise: still to come is a set of scrapers, spool clamps, as well as tools and supplies to cut inlay pearl and route the cavities. I ordered the StewMac Dremel router base, as well as a saw/jig/blower kit and a book. In addition, I had a nice chat with Andy DePaule (inlay shell supplier) and he is sending me some inexpensive mop and abalone pieces to practice cutting.

Setting up shop

The most immediate challenge in doing lutherie (or any woodwork) at my place, is the lack of workshop space. The only space with day light, and non-carpeted floors, is my dining room. It's a great space to be, since I can look out over the water and watch the boats as I work. Of course, since this is not a dedicated shop, I can't have a permanent setup. I will have to work on the dining table, and break down and clean up after most work sessions. I also don't have room for any machines, other than some hand-held ones. On the other hand, this is an interesting opportunity to see what can be done with hand tools. I am in the process of buying a few, and learning how to work with wood. It's been a very long time since I've done true wood craft and I'm eager to learn again.



Today I cut up a sheet of MDF board to be a work surface and protect my dining table. I can clamp it to my table and then remove it afterwards. I also set up the parrot vise for work. The first thing I did was mount the vise on a piece of MDF so that I can clamp it to my table when I need it. The second thing was to make some protective jaws for the vise so that it doesn't mar the wood. I made a cardboard template of the jaws and then transferred the shape to some 1/4" aspen that I had. After cutting it, I covered one side with some 1/8" neoprene that I had left over from kayak outfitting. I used contact cement to bond it to the wood piece. On the back side of the protective jaws, I put a business-size magnetic card that comes with a peel-off side for attaching it. The magnet will help keep the protective pads attached to the jaws.

This is me. The photo was taken recently at a CBOM get together in Phili. I'm playing a beautiful custom-made octave mandolin that belongs to Karen (Otter), made by Brian Dean. Inspiring work!